How can you travel to Kashmir and not taste the rich and regal Kashmiri kahwa, light liquor tea drenched with dry fruits; clearly tea for the rich, what with one small paper cup costing some 30 bucks. For dinner, we zeroed in on Mughal Darbar. There are 4 brothers with different restaurants in the same building with the same name, be careful to choose the one on the ground floor. Mughal Darbar is to Kashmir what Peter Cat is to Kolkata, Britannia to Mumbai, Kareems to Delhi, old, traditional, authentic, oozing with culture and lots of food! Being thorough carnivours, we ordered the Kashmiri Wazwan, a state of the art dish with various kinds of meat preparations served on a heap of rice. Guests sit together and share this meal, out of a large plate. The second course also has more meat based dishes, popular ones being rishta (meatballs), rogan josh (lamb roast), gushtaba and yakhni (both yogurt based meat dishes). Apparently the original Wazwan is supposed to have around 36 courses...after this, all I could say was...burrrp!